Frequently Asked Questions

These are the questions homeowners on the Mid-Cape and Outer Cape ask most often when they call. Every answer starts with the answer.

I just opened the cottage and the floor is wet. What do I do first?

Shut the water off at the main valve or the well pump breaker, turn the heat on if it is safe, and keep power off to any room with wet outlets. Take photos before you move anything. Then call. Frozen pipe cleanup crews start by working out how long the water ran.

How long has the house been wet if nobody was here?

Usually since the first thaw after the freeze. A split pipe does not leak while it is frozen. If the pipe froze in a cold snap and the thaw came three days later, the house has been wet since then, and the crew scopes the job around that timeline, not the day you found it.

The water is gone. Is the job done?

Rarely. Subfloor, framing, plaster, and insulation hold water long after the surface feels dry, and Cape sea air gives a wet room little help. Structural drying runs air movers and dehumidifiers until meter readings say the materials are back to their target.

Why does my crawl space matter if the rooms upstairs look fine?

Because that is where the water ends up. On a Cape or cottage with a crawl space, a leak drains through the subfloor into sand that sits a few feet above the water table and never dries on its own. Crawl space water extraction pumps it out and dries the joists before they rot.

Salt water came in during the storm. Is that different from a pipe leak?

Salt water and street runoff are treated as contaminated water. They carry sand, fuel, and whatever the tide picked up, so porous materials that soaked it usually come out and hard surfaces are cleaned and disinfected. Flood cleanup is built around that.

Can my pine or oak floors be saved?

Sometimes. A floor that got wet for a day or two can often be dried with floor mats before it buckles. A floor that sat under water for weeks in a cold, closed house has usually cupped past saving. The crew meters the floor before anyone pulls a board.

The basement has a few inches of water after every big rain. Is that a restoration job?

The cleanup is. Sandy soil and a high water table along Bass River, Parkers River, and the bays push groundwater into Mid-Cape basements after hard rain. Basement flooding cleanup pumps it out and dries the walls and floor. Stopping the seepage is a separate fix.

Will insurance pay for this?

Nobody on this site can tell you what your policy will pay. Many policies cover a burst pipe as a sudden loss, but some apply a different rule when the house was unheated or empty. Water from the bay or the street usually needs a separate flood policy. Ask the crew to document readings and photos.

We are on a Title 5 septic system. Does that change anything?

It changes what the water might be. A flooded yard or a saturated leach field can back wastewater into the house, and that is handled as contaminated water. Massachusetts sets the rules in Title 5. Tell the crew if the system backed up or the yard flooded.

The roof leaked in the nor'easter. Do I call a roofer or a water damage crew?

Both, in that order. A roofer stops new water from coming in. Roof leak water damage work dries the wet insulation, ceiling, and walls the leak already reached, and those are separate jobs even when one company does both.

What happens to the furniture, rugs, and papers that got wet?

They are sorted by material and how wet they got. Solid wood, hard goods, and many textiles can be dried or cleaned. Particleboard, wet mattresses, and paper that sat in dirty water usually cannot. Water damage content restoration keeps a written list of what went where.

Do I need a permit to rebuild after the drying?

Drying and cleanup do not need one. Replacing drywall, plumbing, or wiring usually does. Each of the fifteen Cape towns runs its own building department, and the area pages on this site name the right one. The provider handles permits when the rebuild requires them.

How much will it cost?

This site does not quote prices, and a provider cannot either until they have taken readings in the house. The scope depends on the source, how long the water sat, and what it reached. Ask for a written scope before work begins.

How do I get started?

Call (508) 419-9161 now and tell us what you see: where the water started, whether the house was empty, and whether it is still running.

Still Have Questions?

Call us at (508) 419-9161. We are happy to help.

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